Recent content by TobyU

Might be the way it's supposed to work but not the case on mine. It never runs hot and ac is fine- except for piss-poor design of actuator motors resetting and messing up on battery removal. Dumbest idea ever contender! I have to manual flip one near glove box from hot/cold every season for...

On the rear of the motor in the middle but some have a plastic cover....a raised up area about 3/8 inch round. Do it on the side at 45 degrees.

My front driver side broke in half. I knew it had some rust and little rectangular hole in it but I didn't think it was that compromised. Parking lot turning into spot popped it. I like to scrape loose rust then use Loctite Extend converter once or twice. I like Extend much better that rust...

Fan clutch?? What's that? Lol When we bought our 04 it had a fan clutch code but ran fine. Then when it got cold out months later it started popping reduced engine power light and limping. At first would only do it if you gave it a a little more gas than normal. Would be fine for weeks..then...

Often giving it a good smack on the blower motor will get it spinning again. Usually if it's the electrical or s[peed control module it will have high or at least some speeds. When there is nothing, it can be a fuse but most commonly the motor is shot or stuck. I have pulled many and lubed a...

All true about aircraft. I have told my friends and coworkers for years...."It's a good thing we don't fly planes!" I don't apply the aircraft seriousness to autos in most if any cases. AS it said, you can just pull over to the side of road in most instances. I will agree, losing a wheel at...

IIRC I used a long combination wrench that slid into the frame. 18mm maybe....maybe bigger.

Yes but I have seen 20-25 year old vehicles that were factory or when new undercoated and they looked like a 2 year old vehicle underneath. It works sometimes.

While we're on it....what is the easiest way to do these arms? I did a driver's side last year and it was a bear. Did it on the ground with jack and stands but getting it twisted and getting shaft into hole or whatever it was I can barely remember was a pain. I ended up using a 6 foot spud...

Correct. This design does not preload or load the bearing at all. It's like many ford 4wd trucks too. All you are doing is tightening the splined shaft of the cv shaft with the nut and squeezing a solid metal tube or sleeve in the hub assembly. So unless you strip it off, crack the nut, snap...

@Mooseman Thanks. I think that is most common methods. The undercoating whether tar or rubberized seems to be hit or miss. I think IF you get it done on a new one or one with not rust already forming, then it is a benefit but after the fact it is mostly cosmetic look good cover-up. I do think...

"What you imply about being able to apply a 'Greater Tightening Force by using the Diminished Leverage of moving your hand closer in from the farthest end of the Lever... defies all logic. " That wasn't me that posted that. I agree that on the owner's manual spec and jacking procedures ot at...

We just did a 350 mile round trip in wife's 04 TB ext and it got 18.3. It more than likely needs some plugs and has 237K on it but it runs well and no codes. It has always felt anemic even on slight inclines but that is coming from an expedition with a 5.4 V8 in it. It will go if you give it...

Hello all. Picked up a really clean southern Escalade that the underneath looks like a 3-4 year old northern rust belt vehicle. Haven't owned a full size GM SUV ...but know the rockers love to go first. What's the theories on adding more life to them? Fluid Film, Woolwax, Corrosion Free Rust...

Funny how every manufacturer has a lug nut torque spec but they all give you a lug wrench and tell you to "tighten" them in tire changing instructions. Maybe it's just not that critical.... The ability of a rotor to be warped by over or uneven tightening is not the same for all cars. Has to do...