What did you do to your GMT today? [Part II]

In our FAQ, we have a couple of threads that have some tricks to re-re the mounts. One is to grind/cut down the studs on the mounts. The other is to drill a hole in the PCM bracket so you have a straight shot at the stud using normal extensions. Lots of info in those threads.
 
  • Like
Reactions: xavierny25 and Matt
Not today, but over the course of the past few weeks, I found a rare way for our I6s to throw misfires. Had a P0305 pop on me 2 weeks ago. Picked up a new ignition coil, got that swapped out in short order, but still had the problem. Figured that meant it had to be the spark plug, so picked up a few of those since they were cheaper, and swapped that in. Rough idle still persisted... :confused:

Throwing ideas at the wall, I unplugged the connector, messed with a few other random things, and when I plugged the connector back in, the engine calmed right down. Not understanding what changed, I took the win (for the moment) Engine ran just fine until Tuesday, when on the morning commute to work, the same cylinder went out again.

Long post, not as long as it could be, the issue seems to be the connector itself. I started by jiggling the wires thinking one might be broken inside the insulation, and nothing changed. But when I grabbed the connector and twisted it counter clockwise (not very hard) something in there made enough contact to resolve the misfire. Letting it go, brought the problem back. On a hunch, grabbed my can of electrical contact cleaner and sprayed the socket pretty good, then plugged and unplugged the connector about half a dozen times, before leaving it unplugged so they could dry.

Truck has been running normally for the past 2 days so far. Did take a peek at replacement pigtails, and had no idea they'd be so expensive for what they are. Had been trying to find the model number of just the connector/pins, and go find it on Mouser or something, but with the shipping they charge, I'd be likely spending just as much in the end. 🤷‍♂️
 
I just upgraded to a DIC instrument cluster yesterday and today I drove the truck for the first time with this cluster! Lovely big characters displaying the odometer and two trip counters.
Also the messages, like Drivers door ajar. Can't wait to put a steering wheel with switches in when the weather warms up.
 
<snip>
Long post, not as long as it could be, the issue seems to be the connector itself.
<snip>

Well, circled back to this, as my 6 pack of connectors arrived. Had one trimmed, crimped on butt connectors, and was about ready to cut the harness on cylinder 5, when warning bells started going off in my head. "Why not take the connector apart, and see if anything inside is an obvious (meaning fixable) problem."

Took the connector I had, and after maybe 15 minutes (10 wasted with the depinning tool, that wasn't doing anything) figured out how to dismantle it. The purple insulating piece, can be pulled off with small pliers. That exposes the 3 plastic hammers that sit above the pins, locking them into place. From here if you lift the hammer on one of the pins, you can easily pull the pin out from the connector.

20260208_160213_2.jpg20260208_160251_2.jpg20260208_160434_2.jpg

Armed with that knowledge, I did the same to the connector for cylinder 5, and this was the result. Anyone see the problem here? :wowfaint:

20260208_155657_2.jpg

A little annoyed that I spent $30 on a batch of connectors, instead of trying this out first, but it was 100x easier taking a connector apart at a bench, than leaning over an engine and reaching back towards the firewall.

But yeah, used a pick tool to push the pin further in place until it locked, reassembled everything, and fired the engine up Smooth as silk, like it should be. In hindsight, I probably should check all of the connectors. No idea how this one could have ended up like that, since they don't move at all.
 
So, day prior, this happened...

PXL_20260211_211219882_resized7617338491507379906.jpg

My son opened the tailgate window but, according to him, the gas cylinders did not hold it up, it slammed down and the glass exploded. The CMHSL already had broken tabs from my vigorous snow sweeping. There was glass everywhere and I'll be finding more of this glass forever. A lot of it stayed together as it had a tint film.

Same day after work, I went to Kenny-u-Pull and picked up another one from an 02 TB. It wasn't perfect with scratches and broken grid lines (as usual) but it was factory tinted and good enough for me. Three of the brass nuts in the top escutcheon broke off so left them on the glass' mounts. Back at home, I immediately removed my escutcheon and two of those brass inserts broke off. Oddly enough, two spots for more brass inserts weren't used. I JB Welded the two that broke and added the two extras in the empty spots from those I got from the replacement glass. My original glass didn't have mounts for those extra nuts but the 02 did. I guess they deleted two mounts to save a buck. Gave the JB Weld time overnight to set.

Yesterday, I drove the TB to work with a tarp attached over the rear window hole. After work, used the garage to replace the glass. The bottom of the escutcheon uses double sided tape to attach to the glass. I used some washers on the broken tabs to hold the brake light. The replacement otherwise went well, even by myself. I did permanently lock that glass so it can't be opened anymore except through a hole I drilled to access the lock. I never used it and no need to risk it again.

PXL_20260212_205811434.MP_resized8986937418994368501.jpg

Only thing is I lost my GMTNation sticker
:sadcry:
 
Only thing is I lost my GMTNation sticker
:sadcry:
I may have 1 or 2 laying around somewhere. Once I find them I'll message you for a mailing address.
 
Replaced the master cylinder with an AC Delco unit from RockAuto (thanks as always for the coupon codes) on the TB. Bench bled the cylinder and all 4 calipers and what a difference! Pedal doesn’t go to the ground anymore. Original lasted 150K. Oil change done today too.
 
Bought a Trickle Charger to mount under the hood since its a spare vehicle. Just need to get it installed.
 
The low beam on the passenger side of the wife's '06 TB wouldn't work. Replaced the bulb, all seemed well. Tried it the next day. Nothing, Gave the headlight a little love tap, the low beam came on. Next time i tried it it was off again.
Thought maybe something was loose inside the headlight assembly, or maybe a wiring issue. Since a love tap temporarily fixed it I was really suspecting the headlight assembly. I have a spare of each side, so this afternoon I swapped in a different headlight. Seems to work OK. Hope it stays that way!
Just waiting for the sun to go down so I can adjust the beam vertically.
Might try to pull the old headlight apart and see if I can see anything wrong in there.
 
My poor old girl is sleeping in the heated shop tonight. It dropped again to those -30 temps and something iced up again. It runs fine but there is added engine noise and vibration throughout. Happens most years.

Once it thaws I will dump her back outside. We had a bit of a snow storm so I was using it over the rez car.
 
Guess what I'm doing this weekend?

1000006995.jpg

And the funny thing is, it happened near the same spot that it last happened with my '02 back in 2014. This time it's likely a rusted out line. Just waiting for the tow truck right now. I was on my way to a medical appointment so had to cancel that. I might go to the PnP to try and find some good lines but I will likely wind up having to patch it. Hope it didn't go on my brakes :cry:

Edit: Just got home with it. The right side brakes got soaked so new pads at least :frown: . At least I won't have to do a fluid flush this year
:laugh:
 
Last edited:
Friday I did the cooler line. It was the part that holds the little clip that holds the lines together that corroded. I just cut off the joint and patched it with hose and clips. I couldn't put two clamps on one side as I couldn't slip the hose onto the line enough. I used fuel injection clamps so they do hold better than the old worm gear type.

PXL_20260327_194034207_resized6562862159075002801.jpgPXL_20260327_195235154_resized4910682929812000913.jpg
PXL_20260329_153641899_resized1733415184797082537.jpg

Then I fixed the front bumper. Mrs. Moose lost a fight with a snow bank earlier this winter. I had to do some surgery stitching up the lower part and reattaching the bracket that holds it to the fender. Not pretty but will do until I can find a suitable replacement.

PXL_20260329_210259725_resized309284234606379875.jpg

It was such a beautiful day with a balmy 7c, I then did the oil change on the Sierra. Even though it still had 34% OLM left, I do mine early at 8k km. The money light is on and it's a U0632, lost comms with left cooling fan (yeah, the fans are on the network!). Tried to disconnect the fan to do some diagnosing but I just wound up finding a feral cat under the hood. As best as I can diagnose, I figure it's the module in the fan that's borked as it also threw a U1345, LIN Bus communication fail but after I pulled the fan's fuse and reinstalling it, that error disappeared, leaving me with just the fan error. The only way I can disconnect the fan is to remove them so I may just shotgun it if I have to do that.
 
Received a new lumbar adjustment knob for the driver's seat. My girl's 2002 TB with 78k miles. Received box, cut open, walked out to TB, unlocked door and knelt down and pushed on the knob after aligning it. Took all of 3 minutes. Yep, I am an ASE Master Tech, I am the S*H*I*T!
 
I almost forgot. The RA box contained the usual magnet card. It was a 1960 Pink Cadillac. She put it on her tool box.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BrianF and Mooseman
What I will be doing to my GMT this weekend . . . looking into a "Low Oil Pressure" warning I got last night.

Pulled into a parking lot immediately and shut off the engine. Checked the dipstick and all looked & smelled OK. Plugged in my OBD adapter, fired up Torque Pro and was horrified to see only 8psi at idle vs. 30-32psi normally!!

The IPC and Torque Pro gave the same result so the IPC and oil pressure gauge are likely not the problem.

Listened for lifter/valve train noises; fortunately none heard. Waited 5 minutes and started it up again only to find pressure was back to normal. No prior degradation of pressure over time so not a catastrophic oil pump failure.

Oil level & condition were fine (level at 1 notch below full, 1500 miles since last change); no oscillations in pressure like I saw with the compromised o-ring seal on the pickup; pressure stable at idle & speed.

Changed the oil pressure sensor back in '15, so it now has 11 years & 85K miles on it. Will check the connector to see if it is is leaking. Possible blockage at the sensor screen??

Hmmm . . . I hate intermittents!
 
Last edited:
Yea, is likely the sensor. If easy enough to get to, do a manual gauge oil pressure reading.
 
This morning, at -8c (where is spring???), leaving for work, started the TB and immediately heard a gurgling noise and saw fluid gushing out under the truck. Shut it off immediately. Checked and saw that the return power steering hose slipped off the metal line going over the shock tower. WTF? It even had two worm gear clamps. Maybe they lost tension. I remembered that I had topped off the PS with some Asian car PS fluid because I was out of regular stuff so maybe that was it. Might have been too thick. Spent an hour trying to get that hose back on. Was so cold that I got the heat gun out to make the hose pliable again as shit don't wanna stretch when it's frozen. Got it on, double clamped it again good and tight (but not too tight), then refilled the PS with Dex VI tranny fluid because that's all I had. Had to jack the front end and turn the wheels side to side numerous times to bleed it. Started it up and it didn't even whine a little.

Got to work an hour late but nobody noticed :biggrin:

That's twice now that it's done this kind of BS to me. Getting old? Wanting to go out to pasture? Maybe I'll just do like with 'Ol Yeller! It seems to go through these bouts of shit breaking after long periods of nothing.
 
Replaced the oil pressure sensor. As usual, replacing the old part was straightforward despite having to do it blind and in a tight location (in between the intake manifold and the firewall).

The fun part came when I realized the rubber seal from the pigtail had fallen off (the plastic tip came off with the old sensor). Try as I might, I could not for the life of me see it. Fingers crossed, I blasted the whole area with air and sure enough the seal fell out on to the floor. Cleaned it up, reassembled the pigtail & reattached to the oil pressure sensor. Works like a charm!
 
Last edited:
Yesterday...

Jump Started it, I guess the battery tender clamp I had on it wasnt making a good connection.

Drove it above 60 miles to pick up a Mahogany dining room table I found on FaceBook MarketPlace for cheap. Slid right in on the XUV... Man I love my XUV.


Friend of mine that I took with to help had never seen a XUV or what it could do, and asked if I was selling it.. Which I am thinking about.

Bought a NOCO 2amp Battery tender and installed it correctly.

Put a layer of Mahogany Lemon Oil on the table, and she shined up like new!
 
In one breath you say, "Man I love my XUV" and then in the next breath you say "Thinking about selling it"? Fickle..........:2thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
I have only put about 300 miles on it now in the last 2 years and 3 months.

She always starts (under its own power or with a jump start), but vehicles dont like sitting for that long.

Its really the only reason I am considering it. It still costs money monthly to insure, yearly for plates, and whatever maintenance it may/may not need, plus me taking it every once in a while to put Non-Ethanol gas in it to keep whats in it fresh... And as we all know, gas aint cheap! And non-ethanol gas is even more expensive here.

BUT!

I would only sell it if I had a vehicle that replaced both my Rivian and my Envoy.. So it would have to be a pickup of some sort.
 
I have only put about 300 miles on it now in the last 2 years and 3 months.

She always starts (under its own power or with a jump start), but vehicles dont like sitting for that long.

Its really the only reason I am considering it. It still costs money monthly to insure, yearly for plates, and whatever maintenance it may/may not need, plus me taking it every once in a while to put Non-Ethanol gas in it to keep whats in it fresh... And as we all know, gas aint cheap! And non-ethanol gas is even more expensive here.

BUT!

I would only sell it if I had a vehicle that replaced both my Rivian and my Envoy.. So it would have to be a pickup of some sort.
I did correct my original post to read "XUV" instead of the mistake of "VUV".
 
And XUV specific parts are as rare as, well, XUV parts. Break one of those and you're hooped or forced to try and find a good used one if there are any left. The joys of owning an oddball.
 
  • Like
Reactions: movietvet
And XUV specific parts are as rare as, well, XUV parts. Break one of those and you're hooped or forced to try and find a good used one if there are any left. The joys of owning an oddball.
Can you supply a pic(s)?
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
24,240
Posts
648,320
Members
20,673
Latest member
kingsvictor47

Members Online