yes.... the amount of vacuum being pulled thru the "metered orifice" on the other side may not be enough to over come the "fresh air intake" at the resonator. I probably need to cap the barb...
Thanks for the hints. As suggested, removing the brake vac line helped get better leverage and hand access... plus I was then able to see what I was up against in terms of the length of the...
Moving the brake booster vacuum hose out of the way gives you a bit more room to work and is easy to do.
The plastic barb is, hopefully, tougher than you think. I say hopefully because you never...
On my 2008 TB 4.2l with 240kkm plus, I thought that perhaps its a good time to pay some attention the the PCV path.... especially since it appears that perhaps the system is not working "well"...
OK, update.
I tested the continuity between the female slots 71 & 72 on the ECM connector and the female slots on the knock sensor harness connector. Both had continuity and no resistance. I had...
Actually, I think this code (and related sister code) means that the system will not being doing its job as the system disregards the output from the sensor and thus there is NO compensation done...
Here's the schematic for the knock sensors. You'll want to check the wires for sensor #2.
Be sure to check resistance/continuity from the sensor wires to the PCM and also to ground on both...
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Have you actually looked at your misfire counts?
There are likely other things associated with actual firing issues that would show up if you look at fuel trims.
why did you pull the radio? Maybe there was some "back feeding" happening for voltages and when its gone, so is the "back feeding".... maybe check fuses.
I think you have an electrical issue... potentially powering of the PCM. The "check engine" should be coming on. As tjbaker57 has stated, check powering and grounds going to the pcm.... maybe...
Now you getting into the "dirt".... both readings are "too conveniently low".... yet only one "complains". Its quite possible that your meter / leads might be "uncalibrated" such that a "small...
Yes... that is the "simple test".... its basically used to "thumb check" the system side of things.... looking for some sort of "draw" (less then infinite). Of course, the results don't take...
The SM "suggests" a "simple" impedance test of the wiring. Basically, disconnect the sensor. With an ohm meter, measure at the connector, each pin back to a known good ground. The reading...
After another ugly winter, I thought I would add my "effort" to this nice thread. My 2008 has been "hazed" for a while (240kkm). I decided to give some elbow effort along with some "DIY" (ie...
I think so... I don't have the feature on my 2008..... but the feature does appear to have potential input in the motor module..... BUT there are some "strange things" that happen with respect...
There are three connection coming from the turn stock. One is for high and one to produce the variable speed indication / mist. That control line is somewhat "resistive intense"... meaning...
I didn’t do a lot of diagnosing on my end. Thought the multifunction switch would be the easiest attempt and for $22 off Amazon it was worth a shot. My old switch had all the lettering on it rub...
How did you do this? My guess is that you have a dodgy wash relay and not a motor issue... maybe although it looks like the motor module does have a big part and the washer would likely run...
Well,,,,, I do push mine down,,,, and then as I release it it springs back up to a higher position to turn the flashers ON. Then to turn the flashers off I again push the button down and as I...
before you get going into tearing too much apart (although some of the regular maintenance items is wise... ie. fluids, filter, etc), take a look at the back end... specifically the rear control...
ok... thanks for the info. Does the system response change if you only pull one or the other (ie. pull one and then replace it... does the system now work?) Trying to isolate which item might...