Recent content by dhanger

On looking closer I could be wrong, depends on the perspective of the photos.

Hard to tell but looks to me like there's still enough of the stud left on the door shaft to still work fine with a new actuator. As long as the door moves freely and was not the cause for the shutdown then there shouldn't be enough force required to move the door to matter to the actuator.

That's roughly 13 MPG for those south of you, mine gets combined 15 (mostly street, not much highway driving) so it wouldn't hurt to do at least a little diagnostic per @budwich but probably doesn't warrant extensive/expensive repairs.

Sounds good except us average Joes can't afford $40/month and have a minimum of 25 workstations in order to use it. You've got FREE in caps but I'm not seeing anything free about it. Am I looking in the wrong place?

Isn't the mode door the one with the external gear? That gear has to be timed correctly with the mating door gear. I remember doing that when I had the entire dash removed but it was fairly easy under that circumstance. The mode door is either spring loaded or gravity loaded and is naturally in...

Car Scanner also has an Android version.

After the tuning I installed a Hayden 2851 thermal clutch. It sounds like 2 jet engines at startup and doesn't quiet down until full operating temp. Way louder than the original electronic clutch even.

This is a worthwhile endeavor for those like me that are determined to keep their GMT360 going until the wheels come off, and maybe beyond. :thumbsup:

Time to wrap this up. After I got a new switch yesterday I got busy on it this morning. After I removed the old switch I hacksawed the plastic housing off then machined the guts out on the lathe leaving just the metal shell. I then drilled and tapped for 1/8 NPT and borrowed a fitting from my...

My intention is temporary, just to get a true pressure reading. I'll put the new switch in place after that.

Yup, I saw that but that apparently is a different thread than the switch. I have a lathe so I could fabricate any kind of adapter I want but if I can modify the old switch I won't have to create new threads for the other port. My lathe has to have gears changed for metric which is kind of a...

So I went out this morning and started up with my hand on the key in case there was any clatter at all (I know, not the smartest thing but I've become pretty convinced that the switch is the culprit). Everything sounded fine and the gauge was 'reading' correctly for now. I let it warm up at 2500...

I'll leave that to the real experts here :rolleyes:. But in my limited understanding I would think that if it's a sensor as opposed to just a switch it would have to have at least 3 wires, whereas this 'device' uses only 2 from what I have seen so far.

I'm getting confused by your logic as it's become apparent to me from the videos and others that there is no analog/variable voltage signal on this switch, that's only valid on your Tahoe Z71 but not on this car. It's a switch, not a sensor. I'm getting the understanding that the only thing that...

I would too but I don't have one. I do have a fuel pressure tester but not sure if that would work or just foul up the tester. Does anyone happen to know what type of thread the sending unit uses? I'm guessing NPT 1/8 or 1/4 maybe?