Does anyone recommend this compact sub box?

[gpking]

wow, thats an insane amount of resistance in that seat bolt. See why you never use one now? Getting it to 5 ohms is still way too much resistance, its 0 ohms or GTFO with wires like this. I just took one of my cargo bolts to a bench grinder with a wire wheel on one side and put it on the wire wheel for awhile. Then when it was nice and cleaned up I took my metric tap and die kit and tapped the bolt that is riveted to the body or it may be welded idk for sure but I tapped the hole just to grind out the rust in the gaps. I also ground down the paint a little on the top part of the cargo hold down where the little hook flips up or down so that was nice and clean.

Pretty similar to what I did. I couldn't find a wire brush though, so I got into all of the nooks and crannies with a handheld drill and mini-grinding wheel attachment.
My bolt is almost completely shiny now.

What other location are you putting your meter to when you test for resistance? And are you holding it on there firmly? If you slide the tip around a little when testing resistance your reading will vary a lot. I say get an alligator clip or something and clip it around the hook that is in your door jamb that the doors grab to hold the doors closed. It's the only truly bare metal part that exists and looks like clean chrome. Touch your probes together too and see what that resistance reads. Usually its only a few milliohms but still check what that is.

I tried your method with my cleaned cargo bolt and it worked, overload and beep.
To test resistance of my wiring combined with the ground I took my positive amp power cable, connected it to the negative terminal of the battery and used that as my "door jamb".
I connected my ground wire to the cargo bolt and screwed it in snug. I tested the resistance from the power cable (hooked to the negative on the battery) to the ground wire (connected to the cleaned cargo bolt) and got a reading of 0.1ohms.


My DX250.1 came in today and I got it hooked up; so far so good.
The amp doesn't seem to break a sweat rattling the glass, sound quality is great too. I'm surprised how much sound that little 12" can put out.

 

[kickass audio]

cool job dude. That resistance plays a critical role in your electrical system. I had a fuse block of mine that had 0 resistance from one side to the other when not under load but when under load it would go up to 3 ohms of resistance and would get warm. I could never figure out why as it was a tight connection and nice and clean so I just threw that fuse block in the trash and bought another one and it fixed it.

It's always the little things that you would never see unless you test for it that can make or break how your electrical system functions.

 

[gpking]

cool job dude. That resistance plays a critical role in your electrical system. I had a fuse block of mine that had 0 resistance from one side to the other when not under load but when under load it would go up to 3 ohms of resistance and would get warm. I could never figure out why as it was a tight connection and nice and clean so I just threw that fuse block in the trash and bought another one and it fixed it.

It's always the little things that you would never see unless you test for it that can make or break how your electrical system functions.

As wire heats up the resistance will go up, so that's definitely something to look out for.

Everything seems a-okay here on day 2. I let the sub pound for about 30 minutes straight and the amp was still cool to the touch.
I really want to thank you for all of your help, I would still be stuck with my bad seat-bolt ground without you.

 

[kickass audio]

You're welcome man. Glad you have it working all good now

BTW, the temperature of amp's doesn't necessarily mean anything. Class A/B amps like the one I use for my mids and highs in my truck get nice and toasty but class D amps like my sub amp usually stay cool. The only time my sub amp gets warm is if I listen to music with the level down really far and I think this is because of my sub being wired to .5 ohms when the amp is intended for use down to 1 ohm but it has had 0 problems and runs perfect so... :wootwoot::wootwoot: haha.

I learned the importance of grounds on my first system in my '98 Olds 88. I also learned the importance of knowing where you are drilling because when I went to redo my ground location I sent the drill bit right through the sending unit of my fuel pump. I had a local shop install it first and they didn't grind off any paint on the ground and they used self tapping screws that were not snug at all. Plus the metal on the floor of the trunk was so thin it would warp easily. I later on plugged that hole and drilled a hole on the a-frame that goes above my strut to support the rear of the car and used a nut and a bolt after I ground off the paint.