Maintenance

[Junfan]

I been searching the site to see what things I need to do with my new truck. I have driven it 500 miles already and am in love with this thing.

I need/want to do maintenance and so far I have identified these things. May03LT really has so much great information.

Change front diff fluid (GM 75w90 synth)
Change my cabin filter (PO must have been a smoker)
Change air filter (no idea when it was done)
Serpentine belt replacement
Transfer case fluid (GM Auto Trac II)
Rear diff fluid (I assume same as front)

What are the things I am missing that should be addressed or looked at?

Thanks in advance and have a nice Sunday evening!

Kevin

 

[IllogicTC]

There is no cabin air filter. At least, not stock. It is possible to modify to accommodate one, though.

-Throttle body cleaning. We should have an article around here for that, it's an easy procedure. If you're thinking about doing spark plugs too (if it's over 100k), it's easy to do this as a 2-in-1 job.
-Oil and filter. Might as well, if it wasn't already done.
-Rotate the tires. Give yourself a known rotation interval.

 

[C-ya]

Coolant flush and fill if you have no data. Getting ready to do this on both of my vehicles.
Transmission fluid and filter if you have no data.

 

[Junfan]

Excactly what I was looking for. Thank you gentlemen. Have a great Monday!

 

[The_Roadie]

If you don't have trustworthy maintenance records in hand, and salesperson's utterances are not trustworthy, I recommend you change every single fluid in the vehicle, including coolant and brake fluid.

Also, use the instructions in the Owner's Manual to lower the spare, check its condition and pressure, and lube the lowering cable and winch and latch. This is a huge problem spot on some trucks with corrosion. You don't want to find out it won't lower by the side of a dark street some night in a scary neighborhood.

Check the battery age if you can - five years is about it for batteries. Test and adjust the emergency brakes. Check all lights. All window switch functions. Check ALL 4WD modes including neutral.

Many of these things are what we also recommend in a pre-purchase inspection, so you know what's a fair price to offer and you're not getting ripped off. But only a few new members a month locate this site BEFORE their purchase.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Might change brake and power steering fluids.

 

[Robbabob]

Not a thread hijack since everything has been mentioned!

But only a few new members a month locate this site BEFORE their purchase.

mememememememememe Woo hoo, I was lucky!

 

[BrownHP800]

Test and adjust the emergency brakes.

I second this. When we got our TB for our son, the dealer said that how it was well maintained at a local garage with a good reputation and for the most part they were right except for the emergency brake. Pulled into our drive which has a slight slope, nothing big, pulled the ebrake up and noticed it went the whole way and never engaged. No big deal figure it was out of adjustment. Pulled the rear tires and started at the LR and removed the rear disc. EBrake lining looked good, adjusted it up. Went to RR and did the same thing but there was no lining left on the EBrake shoes. Not sure how or why that was never checked. Just lazy mechanics is my guess. It is a bit of work to get the rear discs off.

 

[triz]

I second the brake fluid. A well overlooked item.

 

[Junfan]

Thanks again. I had forgotten about power steering but was going to do brakes. They feel soft compared to what I am used to but going to do it just so I know it was done on my watch.

 

[Mark20]

The TB/Voy brakes typically do feel soft. No change after I flushed mine.

 

[BlazingTrails]

My brakes felt terrible before I redid everything. The fluid that came out of the front lines looked like gray mud, I've never seen fluid like that. Now with new slotted rotors, ceramic brakes, and the lines all flushed out with new fluid they feel great

 

[dmanns67]

My brakes felt terrible before I redid everything. The fluid that came out of the front lines looked like gray mud, I've never seen fluid like that. Now with new slotted rotors, ceramic brakes, and the lines all flushed out with new fluid they feel great

I agree. I changed the brake fluid, upgraded to BrakeMotive D/S rotors with cermaic pads. Now the brake pedal is very firm and does not take much pressure at all to slow the the 3Ton vehicle. Huge improvement over stock.

 

[Junfan]

I have worked through most everything at this point except one thing. What is the best way to actually drain the trans? It sounds I will end up with 4-6 quarts to top if off and many more in the unit itself which you cannot drain directly. I hear some say to idle with the coolant line off and others are saying no way. What is the best method to also drain the trans so I can replace all the fluid?

Sounds like any decent Dexron VI is good. I will probably just grab some valvoline at Napa.

 

[kkeo211]

This is what I did for my self neglected transmission.

I dropped the transmission pan which can get messy, and cleaned the pan. Look for any big metal chunks, but dust like metal peices stuck to the magnet is OK. I ordered the transmission filter and gasket kit from Amazon. I got the ACDelco kit because I wanted something OEM and the gasket is not bent so it made installing it much easier. I added about 4.5 qts of transmission fluid and drove around for about 1000 miles then dropped the pan again, leaving the filter and gasket, and topped it off again. I know this does not get all of the old fluid out, but I was able to replace a little over 9 qts this way.

So far so good. Keeping the finger crossed.

 

[Sparky]

I have worked through most everything at this point except one thing. What is the best way to actually drain the trans? It sounds I will end up with 4-6 quarts to top if off and many more in the unit itself which you cannot drain directly. I hear some say to idle with the coolant line off and others are saying no way. What is the best method to also drain the trans so I can replace all the fluid?

Sounds like any decent Dexron VI is good. I will probably just grab some valvoline at Napa.

I disconnected the cooler line, stuck a hose on it, and ran the hose to a bucket. Started the truck and as soon as the fluid flow sputtered I shut it down. Pulled the pan, installed a shift kit I wanted to do anyway to help address any potential weak spots in the valve body area, changed the filter, changed the cooler lines since they were getting rusty, and refilled. That was at 120k, running great at 200k.

I used the Valvoline Dex/merc in the red jugs.