Oil consumption report

C-ya

C-ya

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Aug 24, 2012
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Yep, more of the same. I just thought I would post this for posterity's sake. I changed my oil today (DIC OLM was at 2%) at 5,300 miles since last oil change. I drive about 6 miles round trip to work, and don't take too many long trips in the truck, so I'm OK with that interval. My problem is that since the last oil change 5,300 miles ago, I have added 6 quarts of oil. Yes, the entire capacity has been added in 5,300 miles.

If I wasn't conscientious enough to actually check my oil, I may be tempted to see how good my aftermarket warranty on internally lubricated parts is.

I just had a tune to disable DOD, but I may be too far gone with 156,xxx miles on the engine. We shall see.
 
I was adding 1qt of Mobil 1 Synthetic every 500 miles, been doing that for about 4-5 years, today the truck awaits an overhaul at a local engine shop.....

2004 TB EXT 4.2
 
Mine has been doing the same thing using a quart about every 500 miles for 4 years. What is strange is when you change the oil it will go about 1000 to 1500 miles before it starts eating oil. What failed on yours?
 
Vicompc said:
Mine has been doing the same thing using a quart about every 500 miles for 4 years. What is strange is when you change the oil it will go about 1000 to 1500 miles before it starts eating oil. What failed on yours?
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On mine, I still don't know... they're supoose to know by Wednesday as they have other engines waiting to be rebuilt... but from what I saw, #1 spark plug was covered in oil, soon after white smoke out the exhaust...
 
C-ya said:
Yep, more of the same. I just thought I would post this for posterity's sake. I changed my oil today (DIC OLM was at 2%) at 5,300 miles since last oil change. I drive about 6 miles round trip to work, and don't take too many long trips in the truck, so I'm OK with that interval. My problem is that since the last oil change 5,300 miles ago, I have added 6 quarts of oil. Yes, the entire capacity has been added in 5,300 miles.

If I wasn't conscientious enough to actually check my oil, I may be tempted to see how good my aftermarket warranty on internally lubricated parts is.

I just had a tune to disable DOD, but I may be too far gone with 156,xxx miles on the engine. We shall see.
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You have the 5.3 V8. That engine has a history of bad valve covers causing oil consumption problems. Have you had that checked?
 
I remember doing some research and I think the valve cover was redesigned for my year, or it had already been done, or some such reason for why I didn't change it.

I'll revisit that, but the consensus was that if you are using oil from the DOD ring fiasco, new valve covers and windage trays were of no use.
 
I haven't checked mine lately and I have only done one oil change, but through the first oil change (admittedly this was not more than 4k miles) I noticed no loss. After the first camping trip to nashville and back I checked it and noticed no loss. 5.3l tahoe.

I wonder what if anything is different about mine? It currently sits with 177k on the clock. I have no history however of what, if anything, had been replaced on the truck. For all I know it could be a new or rebuilt engine.
 
tpc, is yours a DOD/AFM engine?
 
C-ya said:
tpc, is yours a DOD/AFM engine?
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Yup. Once in awhile I watch it go back and forth between 4 and 8 cylinders. Since all this talk of problems with the DOD/AFM's I tend not to watch it as I will obsess over it like everything else lol. Again though, I bought the vehicle used and have no real history on it other than what I had done to it prior to purchase and what the dealer told me was the "story" on it.

I'm slowly working my way into fixing certain things and doing some general maintenance but I haven't even pulled the plugs on it yet.
 
Just an update on my oil consumption, on my way to work Friday the check engine light started flashing I shut it down and had it towed to the shop. They looked at the engine and proclaimed it dead, the number one cyclinder had 20% compression and the exhaust valve was burned. Needless to say the cost to repair/replace the engine is more than the truck is worth so I will be leaving the GMTNation.

I want to say thanks to everyone that has helped me over the years, especially The Roadie.
 
Vicompc said:
Just an update on my oil comsumption, on my way to work Friday the check engine light started flashing I shut it down and had it towed to the shop. They looked at the engine and proclaimed it dead, the number one cyclinder had 20% compression and the exhaust valve was burned. Needless to say the cost to repair/replace the engine is more than the truck is worth so I will be leaving the GMTNation.

I want to say thanks to everyone that has helped me over the years, especially The Roadie.
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how much they quote you? I had 4 valves and the rings go bad..
 
They quoted $8000.00 for a remanufactured engine installed and $5100.00 for a used LQK engine with 80,000 miles on it. The remanufactered engine had a 3yr/100,000 mile warrenty and the LQK engine had a 12 month warrenty
 
Vicompc said:
They quoted $8000.00 for a remanufactured engine installed and $5100.00 for a used LQK engine with 80,000 miles on it. The remanufactered engine had a 3yr/100,000 mile warrenty and the LQK engine had a 12 month warrenty
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You go to a dealer? You have the 5.3, right?.... You should call around... my rebuild of my 4.2 was going to be $3900 installed, yesterday with my authorization went up to $4300 ... added radiator, head bolts, and I think I'm paying for 4 damaged valves as well...
 
Yes I went to the dealer, I was hoping for some assitance on the repair. I have the 4.2, was the $3900 for a remanufactured engine or a used engine?
 
Vicompc said:
Yes I went to the dealer, I was hoping for some assitance on the repair. I have the 4.2, was the $3900 for a remanufactured engine or a used engine?
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they're rebuilding my engine....
2004 TB EXT 4.2
 
Something worth a thought, Vicompc, is.. If there's an independent shop around, they'll do the work a lot cheaper than a dealer. You're paying top dollar anytime you have work done at a dealer. I would imagine you already know that though.
 
The crate engine link above shows a rebuilt "Goodwrench" 4.2l for $4000 including a $400 core charge.
Find a good shop to install. Just a suggestion.

Edit: post #18
 
Texan said:
The crate engine link above shows a rebuilt "Goodwrench" 4.2l for $4000 including a $400 core charge.
Find a good shop to install. Just a suggestion.

Edit: post #18
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There are other GM distributors that sell the 4.2 reman for $3300 + core with the 3yr/100,000 warranty... I did my homework prior to sending my truck for a rebuild... back in feb I think, did a compression test, I knew then ....
 
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Vicompc said:
How much was the labor to install it?
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if you're asking me, I didn't go for a crate engine.. I was quoted $2K for the install of a crate engine... was going to be about $5500-5600 total ... I decided to go the rebuilt route, currently I'm at $4550.00... initially was going to be $3950, but 4 valves needed replacing, cylinder spun a sleeve while boring, opted for a new radiator as well, new cylinder head bolts (not sure if I'm paying or if they're included) ....
 
That's not too bad, I found a 2009 Acadia SLT1 with 77000 on it for 13000 out door with a 3yr 36k bumper to bumper warranty. I figure if the engine went everything else was going right behind it, and I had spent 2500 in the last year in repairs to keep it on the road. I'll miss the trailblazer but this was probbaly the best way to go for me.
 
An update on my oil use. I am down to about 25% on my OLM and have only added 3 quarts of oil. It has been 3,600 miles since the last oil change, but a lot more idling due to winter. Not sure how many miles I'll get before I get under 5% on the OLM. Looks like it will be another 5K mile oil change, but I shouldn't have to add any more oil.

Maybe there's hope for this engine yet! I certainly hope it gets over its appetite for oil because I sure like this TB.
 
Mine has somehow improved, it was going through a quart every 1k miles but now it is going through 1 quart in between oil changes (4k miles)

I am not sure how it could have improved and it has never had any leaks or anything. go figure....
 
I have a 2005 5.3 L saab 97X just 100k experiencing the same engine oil loss I ended up taking the driver side valve cover off and thoroughly cleaning the PCV valve (thoroughly!),soaked in gasoline and compressed air and now I am losing about a .25 quarter to .5 a quart for every 5000 miles traveled .could not believe this helped but it did an incredible amount,something to look at I'm not sure if you've done this. Good luck.A sidenote it doesn't puff any smoke on start up like it did every once in a while prior to the cleaning.
 
SAAb, I'll check that out.

I just changed my oil last weekend. OLM was down to 10%. I only added 3 qts of oil this interval (4550 miles due to lots of winter idling).
 
I'm thinking that some of this is more oil retention rather than consumption. I've noticed after a drive that my truck if checked even as much as several hours later can show low oil. I now check in the morning before start to make sure all the oil has weeped back into the pan. Mike.
 
Just thought I would post an update. I had PCM of NC do an AFM delete a year ago (last November) and my oil consumption seems to have settled in to about 1/2 quart every 2500 miles. I run Mobile-1 5W-30 and I tend to change the oil every 5000-6000 since the truck does not get all that much use ... and Mobile-1 is like $28 for a 5 quart jug at Walmart.
 
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What about fuel consumption? Big difference?
 
Fuel consumption, there is about a 2 mpg difference. I probably 16+ mpg on the last long tip. But that has to do with the way I drive. I like to accelerate and I also like to maintain speed or even pass on uphill sections of highway. I'm not driving for mileage at all. Even with AFM, my mileage would not be that great. I could probably close to 18 right now if I got off the gas pedal and slowed down on the highway ... with AFM I could probably get 2 more mpg - so close to 20 on long trips. Mileage around town and stop and go traffic is never going to be great (AFM is not a factor).
 
I'm getting ready to do an oil change. I'll be using Valvoline full synthetic 5W-30. Last oil change was March of 2015, 5650 miles ago (as of last nights fill up). In that interval, I have added 3 qts of oil at surprisingly different intervals: 2,200 miles after the change, 847 miles later, and 932 miles later. I am 1,664 miles from the last addition of oil, down about a quart, and my OLM is at 3%. I drive short trips 95% of the time, less than 10 miles. I will be driving down to GA for Christmas so I'll give an mpg report. Here around town, I'm holding about 13 mpg. My last highway trip was about 19 mpg. My long-term average since starting to track it via aCar is 13.7 mpg over 3 years and 4 months.
 
Mileage on the vehicle? 159,000? What is your Oil Pressure at Idle?

My son's 2002 TB has 240,000 Miles on it and idles at 40 PSI... No Smoke and NO Oil Consumption.... BUT....

I can't break my addiction to changing his 5w-30 Mobil1 with K&N Oil Filters every 3,000 miles I use in every one of my vehicles. I know the manufacturers all say that if you HAD to, you could do an OC at 15,000 miles if need be... but that is just asking for trouble. If you are consuming oil at the rate you mentioned... It might be worth it to knock 2,000 miles off between changes for say 2-3 OCs and see if it helps. Oil is very much like blood in the sense that both are liquids that have an enormous amount of solids suspended in their streams. In the case of human beings... red and white corpuscles and along with them using (eating) the wrong kind of "oils" and fats way too often that remain solid at room temperatures... will become a one-way ticket to an early death from Athero-Sclerosis (premature hardening of the arteries) and death in about 8 seconds from an MI (Myocardial Infarction) style Heart Attack where the cardiac blood vessels become instantly occluded when a lump of this "Bad Oil" along with too much Cholesterol breaks off and plugs those heart vessels... rock solid...and for good.

It is not an unfair comparison to say that Automotive Engines are no different in this respect. On every single stroke... a certain amount of unburned fuel by-passes the rings in all of the cylinders, carrying with it carbon particles, chemicals and atmospheric dirt from our imperfect air filtration and often entering of just plain dirty and neglected air filters. The presence of the gasoline accumulating in the oil (smell your dipstick and see) tends to "water down" the lubricity of ALL oils... not just organic motor oils, thereby reducing their ability to lubricate in the best possible condition and for as long as the oil change should last... which is about 3,000 Miles. So for the sake of a fairly expensive oil change every 3,000 miles... you get your money back on lower wear of the rotating assembly, more power and performance...and less blow by, better gas mileage and less oil burning as well because your oil...remains "oily". :>)
 
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So I'm not the only one. I'm averaging 14MPG city and last trip I got 16MPG with AFM disabled. I too have a heavy foot and pass on a regular basis.
 
You do know that the oil pressure reading in the I6 is a lie, right?

MRRSM said:
My son's 2002 TB has 240,000 Miles on it and idles at 40 PSI... No Smoke and NO Oil Consumption.... BUT....
Click to expand...
 
I'm not sure I understand. Based strictly upon the principles of fluid dynamics, since all liquids are essentially incompressible and for example, if you push in one inch on a fluid line five miles long at 40 PSI ... the fluid on the exact other end will move exactly one inch and will also register with the exact same 40 PSI on the other end five miles away. So unless the physical potentiometer gauge for measuring Oil Pressure measurement standards are wrong by design or by faulty PCM instructions, I cannot fathom how this condition could be. I might understand it if the oil Pressure Needle did not move up and down the scale with either increases or decreases in Oil Pressure... but in my experience and my son's as well after driving this SUV for over a Quarter of a Million Miles... when I step on the Gas Pedal... the Oil Pressure Needle moves up and and down the Oil Pressure Scale consistent with increases and decreases in Engine Speed.

One other critical observation I can make is that this particular GM engine of ALL GM engines uniquely and specifically requires Oil Pressure to be both present and of sufficient pressure to allow the CPAS sensor to work the hydraulically actuated helical gear inside the Exhaust Cam Variable Valve Timing events that change the advancing and retarding of the camshaft to increase performance and also replace the function of the classic EGR valve. And so when time permits, would you please elucidate? I always enjoy learning new and profound information about these engines. Thanks!

FWIW... I have been using this linked PDF for a reference on this information:

http://vortec4200.com/index_htm_files/vortec4200.pdf
 
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The engineers a GM didn't trust us to read an oil gauge. The 4.2 I6 oil pressure sensor is just an On-Off switch. The PCM then looks at the RPM's and other factors to send a reading to the oil pressure gauge.
 
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