[SOLVED] Headlight switch issue?

[Opeth]

I'm thinking its a faulty headlight switch but just want to make sure before I buy a new one. If I turn the lights to manual they all turn on and both hi and low work. Automatic headlights also come on. However, when I turn the switch all the way left to kill my lights it doesn't work nor when I try to turn on the parking lights they do not come on.

I took apart the whole unit the other day to install some fog light switches and pulled the whole circuit board up to check why the back lights were not working all the bulbs were all burnt out.

It's kind of odd.... Thoughts?

 

[Blckshdw]

Do you parking lights come on at all? When the auto lights or manual low beams are activated, or when you hit unlock on the key fob?

 

[BlazingTrails]

Do you know anybody with a GMT 360 that you night could try their switch to see if that's the problem?

 

[The_Roadie]

Did it work before you took the module apart? Blown lamps are very unusual in there.

 

[Opeth]

The lights have been out in the switch for an unknown period of time, but yes the switch still functioned properly. All marker lights come on when the truck turns them on in auto mode, if I shine a light at the sensor it shuts the lights off. Does the green circuit board need to sit at a certain depth? I pulled it all the way off the black nubs carefully, I cleaned out the plastic shavings from drilling. When I put it back in, I pressed it as far down onto the black nubs as it would go.

 

[IllogicTC]

Okay, you're already familiar with how to get to the headlamp switch assembly... do you have a multimeter?

There's two connectors, one is literally just for the optional equipment (fogs and washers), and the bigger connector has what we need.

Three wires fees a voltage to a different part of the headlamp switch; a command is detected when the circuit is completed by putting the switch in such a way that that wire gets a ground via the switch.

There's a gray/black wire that when it receives a ground, it knows to turn the parking lamps on. This also receives a ground as part of the headlamps selection.

There's a white wire that's for headlamps, if a circuit is completed from the white wire the headlamps come on. In this selection, the gray/black will also have its circuit completed.

There's a light-green wire that if it receives power, it cycles the DRL defeat.

If none of these three wires are getting their circuits completed, it is assumed the switch is on AUTO.

 

[Opeth]

Thanks for that helpful reply, I don't have a multimeter, but I am going to remove the circuit board inside and pull it up some. I'm thinking the contacts on the dial are not contacting the circuit board.

 

[The_Roadie]

... I don't have a multimeter, ...

Say WHAT?!?

View attachment 59162

 

[Opeth]

Haven't had to use one yet Bill, lol.

But just as I thought after the other post, I took the switch apart again and pulled the circuit board further up and it was in fact not connecting with the knob. Everything but the blown lights are back working correctly. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[The_Roadie]

Glad you're up now....not that I helped at all.

But like a condom or parachute.....the time to buy and learn how to use a meter is AHEAD of an urgent need.

 

[IllogicTC]

Boy an awful lot of people showing up without multimeters... I might offer to send someone one of mine not my relatively-expensive (under $100 is NOT expensive compared to a good Fluke!) but my $20 seems a bit better than the HF specials at least!

 

[Opeth]

Glad you're up now....not that I helped at all.

But like a condom or parachute.....the time to buy and learn how to use a meter is AHEAD of an urgent need.

I agree its better to be prepared like the good ol boy scout motto, but also be conservative of resources. My collection of tools has amounted from needs, not wants

This is what I tore the switch apart for...

Bill can we add a "solved" to the thread title to help potential searchers?