Ok, so I've done a lot of looking around to no real avail. I have an 06 4wd trailblazer, I want to lift it some. I have read the top mounts cause cv issues wheeling, but I only use 4wd 2-3 times a year (currently my diff and axles are sitting in my shop getting redone). I guess where I'm going is, what is the risk in a top Mount leveling kit for a highway vehicle only?
Top Mount Lift
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Sparky
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Doesn't matter what mode you're in, the CVs still are in motion regardless. If you put a top mount lift on there you'll overextend the CV axles and destroy something.
You can safely put a 1/2" top mount spacer in (Mark's 2.5" lift has that) but more than that you're asking for trouble.
You can safely put a 1/2" top mount spacer in (Mark's 2.5" lift has that) but more than that you're asking for trouble.
I am not sure where you have been looking without much luck. The last guy that thought putting a lift on top of his suspension destroyed his front end due to CV binding.After a few thousand dollar repair he turned around and purchased Lift Meister 3" lift. IIRC he did not even have 100 miles on the lift when this happened.
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Sparky
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Sparky
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Really? Kind of surprised. I've looked at lifts for my 07.5 Silverado and anything more than a 2 inch level kit (which goes on the bottom of the shock instead of on top) has a diff spacer as well. Granted I haven't looked at very many lifts yet as I'm not ready for one (no money in the budget for it). Perhaps the full size CV axles may have a larger range of motion than the ones on this platform. All I know is if you put a top mount spacer on these you'll destroy stuff pretty quickly. It just takes a good size bump/pothole that extends it past the CV limit and things can get ugly fast.
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Full Size must have better angles. The CVs are probably longer at least, due to being able to do 2 inches vs the 3/4 inch we can do out of strut
Well, I ended up with the deal of the year on an actual lift (not a top mount) so looks like I'm doing it right. It's supposed to be 3" (has a big inside spacer and about a 1/2" on top) with a 3" or so rear spacer. Came from one of the 6" combo nation kits from the interwebs somewhere. But for 50 bucks front and rear I can't complain.
SnowBlazer
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I've thought about a lift for awhile now and the only one I would trust is MarcMC's. Mainly because his are made specifically for our trucks and guys like Hardtrailz run them without issues. I would be hesitant on a $50 dollar set up though.
littleblazer
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On the full size, the sierra has about 2.5 from torsion keys and the cv's are just about straight, maybe a slight angle. I don't know how the others are but it seems much more forgiving than our cv's.
paul2005tb
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I cant find any info on what a "top mount lift" is ?... I have the markmc 3" lift kit installed. How is the "top mount lift" different from the markmc lift ?
coolasice
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They are also labeled as shock extenders. They bolt to the top of the strut plate and "extend" the shock length.paul2005tb said:
So after looking around, maybe I got a 2.5. Should still improve the looms a lot.
Here's what I got.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/290928112941?nav=SEARCH
Here's what I got.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/290928112941?nav=SEARCH
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Yup. Copy of marks kit. Should firm up the ride and get you some clearance and for $50 it would be tough to pass up.
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*supposed to be* a 20 minute job lol. I have that luck where 20 minutes becomes 2-3 hours
paul2005tb
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I can testify that it is definitely a 20 minute job because it only took me 3 hours.bgipson89 said:
.. the fronts are only a 2 hour job because they only took me a two full weekends. But honestly even if it was hard at least I was learning something and that made it worth every minute.HeavyChevy4200
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I just finished the front and back and it does take longer than everyone says. I started at 8am and finished by 3pm. This included a run to the parts store, a couple water breaks, and lunch. This was with two people, decent arrangement of tools and an electric impact.
And the rear spring don't just fall out if you have a rear sway bar,haha. We got the shocks off and couldn't figure out why the rear end would not drop down any farther. It took some trial and error to figure out the rear upper control arms were just barely getting caught up on the rear sway bar end links. Once we got those loose the springs came stumbling out.
Word of caution. Do not remove the panhard bar unless you have enough muscle or a ratchet strap to pull the rear end left to right to align the bolt holes. That was an extra adventure that killed too much time.
And the rear spring don't just fall out if you have a rear sway bar,haha. We got the shocks off and couldn't figure out why the rear end would not drop down any farther. It took some trial and error to figure out the rear upper control arms were just barely getting caught up on the rear sway bar end links. Once we got those loose the springs came stumbling out.
Word of caution. Do not remove the panhard bar unless you have enough muscle or a ratchet strap to pull the rear end left to right to align the bolt holes. That was an extra adventure that killed too much time.
paul2005tb
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Did you flip and swap the front UCAs?... If not that explains why you got the job done so fastHeavyChevy4200 said:
HeavyChevy4200
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No I did not. My plan was to swap them but I was about over it with all the heat yesterday. It was definitely going to take even longer if I decided to move some sheet metal and try to get those bolts out. I took my chances with just the 2.5" lift.paul2005tb said:Did you flip and swap the front UCAs?... If not that explains why you got the job done so fast
I got the alignment done today and Firestone had no issues with getting the camber dead on. The ball joints aren't maxed out and the alignment went well. Would it be better for the ball joints if I swapped the UPC's. Yes, definitely. For my mall rated driving with the occasional dirt road or sandy trail I think it will be okay. I'll leave the serious offroading for my Yamaha Blaster.
paul2005tb
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Yes, getting that dremel tool in there to cut the notch to remove that driver side front UCA mounting bolt was no fun. .. you almost make me wish I had put on the 2.5 in lift instead of the 3in.HeavyChevy4200 said:
And from what I am gathering the 3in lift really doesnt give more room for a bigger tire than the 2.5in. I think you did the right thing.
Think I'm gonna end up flipping mine before I align it. Still haven't gotten around to the rear, been out of town.