FL Wheel Bearing on 4WD

A

addohm

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Jun 15, 2012
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I need to replace my wheel bearing on the front driver side wheel. Do I need the entire wheel bearing + hub assembly, or can I just buy the bearing itself?

What special tools are required to do this? My buddy mentioned something like a 36mm socket, which I have in my work toolbox. I don't wanna truck my whole toolbox home just to do this :)

P.S. Apologies if this belongs in the wheel\brakes forum, seemed more appropriate here.
 
Bring home that 36mm socket even if you have the stock 35mm bolt the 36 shouldn't have a problem taking it off.
Bring a breaker bar, and then I would think just standard socket set for the rest if i remember correctly...Edit, also bring a chisel and hammer encase it doesn't want to separate from the spindle for you, and maybe a punch to pound out the axle.

also, these units use the sealed bearing and hub assembly there is no buying just the bearing.

I recommend a good brand like timkin or national or skf other wise you'll be doing it again next year:twocents:

Hope this helps
 
jpimp said:
Bring home that 36mm socket even if you have the stock 35mm bolt the 36 shouldn't have a problem taking it off.
Bring a breaker bar, and then I would think just standard socket set for the rest if i remember correctly...Edit, also bring a chisel and hammer encase it doesn't want to separate from the spindle for you, and maybe a punch to pound out the axle.

also, these units use the sealed bearing and hub assembly there is no buying just the bearing.

I recommend a good brand like timkin or national or skf other wise you'll be doing it again next year:twocents:

Hope this helps
Click to expand...

It's funny you say that. A year ago I had this same bearing replaced by a mechanic (I didn't have the time to do it myself). I guess he put a shit bearing in. I know the bastard marked it up 100%, but I didn't care much because at the time I didn't have the time, just needed it done ASAP. Lesson learned :)

Thanks for the input.
 
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Make sure you have a brass drift if you don't have a puller...makes getting the axel out of the hub a breeze.
 
4 lbs sledge and a 2x4 took care of the axle for me. Broke the axle nuts loose before I removed the wheels, backed them all the way to end and put the 2x4 against the nut. Couple of good smacks and they slid right out. Also start spraying stuff with PB Blaster ASAP, let it soak in for a few days.

Don't do like me and put the dust shield on the wrong way. :banghead: Had the bolts tight and ready to put the rest back on and it took me a second to realize the caliper band rotor were not going back on.
 
I just used a normal hammer (go ahead and say shit about it but I didn't wail on it hard) and took the cv shaft's nut and put it on the outer edge and hammered it in until it was moving in and out of the bearing. I then soaked the crap out of the 3 bolts that hold the bearing to the truck with pb blaster. While the pb blaster soaks up I disconnected the harness for the ABS sensor and let it hang down. Then unbolt the 3 bolts holding the bearing assembly to the truck and be prepared to crack the bearing assembly a few times with a hammer to break it free from the truck.

Reinstall is simple, I coated the splines of my cv shaft in antiseize and then I coated the 3 bolts that hold the bearing on with antiseize as well. Slide the new bearing on with the dust shield installed (make sure that it is on and has the ABS wire fed through the opening and it faces the right direction) and install the 3 bolts that secure the bearing to the truck. Tighten them down and then bolt down the bolt that secures the cv shaft to the bearing. Connect the abs wire to the mounting holes and plug it into the connection and call it a day.

Be advised sometimes you can misdiagnose a bearing. I had my truck where if I made right turns the truck got louder. Normally that would mean the left bearing is bad so I replaced the left and it still made noise. It turned out that the passenger side was faulty and as soon as I replaced the passenger side it all went away. If you can I would recommend doing both at once otherwise get one and do the side you think is bad and if the noise still is present swap the new bearing to the other side. If after swapping it is still present then you need to get that second bearing replaced.
 
blazinlow89 said:
Don't do like me and put the dust shield on the wrong way.
Click to expand...
Anybody who HASN'T done this yet to their truck simply is a limp wrench who isn't doing enough work on it. I think I committed this error on my THIRD bearing replacement. Sigh....:hissyfit:
 
the roadie said:
Anybody who HASN'T done this yet to their truck simply is a limp wrench who isn't doing enough work on it.
Click to expand...
Or has not hand them fail yet. ;) I can tell you I won't pay to have them done ever again after watching V7guy (OFTB member) swap one out. Besides why put the darn dust shield back on to begin with just going to get a rock stuck in there if you do any off-roading and score your rotor.
 
kickass audio said:
Be advised sometimes you can misdiagnose a bearing. I had my truck where if I made right turns the truck got louder. Normally that would mean the left bearing is bad so I replaced the left and it still made noise. It turned out that the passenger side was faulty and as soon as I replaced the passenger side it all went away.
Click to expand...

Happened to more of here than you'd think...right Bill? :thumbsup:
 
kickass audio said:
I then soaked the crap out of the 3 bolts that hold the bearing to the truck with pb blaster.
Click to expand...

Miracle fluid in a can. :thumbsup:


kickass audio said:
Be advised sometimes you can misdiagnose a bearing. I had my truck where if I m
ade right turns the truck got louder. Normally that would mean the left bearing is bad so I replaced the left and it still made noise. It turned out that the passenger side was faulty and as soon as I replaced the passenger side it all went away. If you can I would recommend doing both at once otherwise get one and do the side you think is bad and if the noise still is present swap the new bearing to the other side. If after swapping it is still present then you need to get that second bearing replaced.
Click to expand...

Been there and done that. :crazy:
 
I have never seen that article before and I have never disconnected the upper BJ to just replace the hub on either side. The article doesn't explain reason why.
 
Its easier to slide the CV shaft out of the hub.

I tossed the dust shields(rock catchers) in the trash on the first replacement
 
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