Windshield washer stuff

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papilgeephd

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So earlier this week the DIC told me to "check washer fluid." Later that day I had to wash pollen off the windshield and it worked fine. The next day I got hit by a bird while driving (good luck?), and when I went to run the windshield washer, no fluid came out. I assumed I was completely out of fluid and bought some more today and added it.

Now, my rear washer works fine, but my front washers don't put out any fluid whatsoever. I don't suspect a pump issue since I can hear them run when I hit the front washer. I haven't ruled out a clog, but I have to wonder how the nozzles/hoses could get so clogged within the span of one day.

Is there some random waiting period between adding washer fluid and actually having it come out? Or am I overlooking something simple? Help me out, folks.
 
Did you hold it on to refill the lines and start squirting or just try it once?
 
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:iagree: There's a TSB regarding long pump prime times for the front washer. The lines have a tendency to drain themselves, particularly when the tank is low. The corrective action is installing a little valve in the line. I tried this but it found it adversely affected flow so I took it out and just make it a point to keep the tank topped off.

FWIW, the pump inlet is suprisingly small so it wouldn't take much for a piece of debris to clog it.
 
HARDTRAILZ said:
Did you hold it on to refill the lines and start squirting or just try it once?
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The longest I tried was maybe 15 seconds -- and this was several tries. Should I go longer?


AtlWrk said:
:iagree: There's a TSB regarding long pump prime times for the front washer. The lines have a tendency to drain themselves, particularly when the tank is low. The corrective action is installing a little valve in the line. I tried this but it found it adversely affected flow so I took it out and just make it a point to keep the tank topped off.

FWIW, the pump inlet is suprisingly small so it wouldn't take much for a piece of debris to clog it.
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I'll check on all that. Is the valve something I could find and install/remove myself, or is it one of those special dealer things?
 
AtlWrk said:
:iagree: There's a TSB regarding long pump prime times for the front washer. The lines have a tendency to drain themselves, particularly when the tank is low. The corrective action is installing a little valve in the line. I tried this but it found it adversely affected flow so I took it out and just make it a point to keep the tank topped off.

FWIW, the pump inlet is suprisingly small so it wouldn't take much for a piece of debris to clog it.
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On the plus side, the reservoir holds a lot. A LOT. I'm used to a half-gallon being near overflowing in the reservoir, now if I'm to the "check washer fluid" stage I can put the whole jug in and still have a little room.
 
IllogicTC said:
On the plus side, the reservoir holds a lot. A LOT. I'm used to a half-gallon being near overflowing in the reservoir, now if I'm to the "check washer fluid" stage I can put the whole jug in and still have a little room.
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THIS. I dumped a whole bottle of fluid in there... then I was checking underneath the truck for leaks because it still didn't seem full.
 
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LOL, I did the same thing when I first got the TB.
 
The reservoir holds damn near 1.5 gallons. I top mine off about once a month and sometimes it's a full bottle and maybe more without the light coming on.
 
Regarding the actual washer fluid used, I have seen GREAT results with the Rain-X brand. In Wisconsin, I use the de-icer version during the winter and their "bug remover" formula during the summer months. It gives Rain-X treatment to the windsheild during use and saves me a lot of time that would be spent polishing the window with the regular Rain-X product (and that often leaves the window hazy right after treatment).

http://www.amazon.com/Rain-X-Windshield-Washer-Fluid-De-Icer/dp/B003VOF6A6/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1399033083&sr=1-9&keywords=windshield+wiper+fluid

I typically purchase this from Advance Auto or some other local parts house.
 
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papilgeephd said:
The longest I tried was maybe 15 seconds -- and this was several tries. Should I go longer?



I'll check on all that. Is the valve something I could find and install/remove myself, or is it one of those special dealer things?
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The check valve part number is 24024822. ($6.50+shipping online). There's a barbed fitting next to the tank that joins the lines from the tank to the lines that go to the nozzles. You just pull that out and replace it with the valve. 1 minute tops.

That being said, my recommendation is to NOT use it as I found it restricts the flow too much. Just keep your fluid topped off. The pumps won't have to work as hard and they won't lose prime :thumbsup:

Did you get the front pump working again? I would pull it out (have something to plug the hole in the tank) and inspect that nothing got sucked up when you ran it low. Even a little restriction may keep it from priming.
 
papilgeephd said:
Guys, I found the problem... it's a pretty forceful leak right at the pump, I believe. See for yourselves...

attachicon.gif
IMG_20140502_091413_372.jpg
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That's the real deal right there. Looks like a drunken whizz taken off a bridge. Now to find those part numbers....
 
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Try pushing down on the pump and see if that stops the leak.
 
Pushing it down didn't stop the leak, so I went ahead down to the local AutoZone and bought a new pump. Turns out that was the right move, as you can see the old one below...

IMG_20140507_125038_096-1.jpg

I recommend removing the grille and right headlight (on a Rainier) before doing this. Makes the job much easier, especially if you have to replace the entire assembly as I did.

At any rate, I'm back in business. I still wonder how it cracked, but it was 9-year-old plastic, after all...
 
Mine had the base separate from the motor, it's actually two pieces so you can turn it to line up the wire and the hose line.
 
papilgeephd said:
Pushing it down didn't stop the leak, so I went ahead down to the local AutoZone and bought a new pump. Turns out that was the right move, as you can see the old one below...

attachicon.gif
IMG_20140507_125038_096-1.jpg

I recommend removing the grille and right headlight (on a Rainier) before doing this. Makes the job much easier, especially if you have to replace the entire assembly as I did.

At any rate, I'm back in business. I still wonder how it cracked, but it was 9-year-old plastic, after all...
Click to expand...
I would say it either froze (arctic blast) or like you said, or the plastic cracked allowing the clips that retain the two pieces to come undone.
 
Oh, it definitely cracked. That was where the (forceful) leak was coming from.

I'm not so sure it froze due to an arctic blast, since it only started leaking about a week before I did the repair.
 
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